Wednesday

July and August 2006 - Month(s) in Review


Victory lap? Do-Over? An excuse to take a few weeks off work? Whatever you want to call it, our return trip to several Mid Atlantic and New England destinations was fantastic. Some places we saw for the first time; others we saw with entirely new perspectives. We even remembered to take pictures this time around. Look for new and improved reviews of New Bedford Whaling NHP, Boston NHP, Minute Man NHP and Saratoga National NHP in the coming month as well as loads of brand new reviews. In the meantime, here is our totally biased assessment of the summer months.


Miles Traveled (in Altima) – 2,112

Most Interesting Sign – Mazel Wok, name of a Kosher Chinese restaurant in Woodbourne, New York.

Most Interesting Town Names – Drive east on I-84 through Pennsylvania and you will go through Promised Land on your way to Lord’s Valley.

We are quite happy that our mailing address is not Coxsackie, New York.

Best Opportunity to Test Michael’s “Jacket of the Year” (Worst Weather Day) – We may have had more days of rain on this short jaunt than in the entire trip. July 22 and 23 in Albany, N.Y. were particularly soggy. A thunderstorm soaked us and had us running for cover on July 28th in Boston. But what is the best surefire way to bring on a torrential downpour? That’s right, pitch the tent and build a fire! A short hike to a beaver dam near Chittenden Brook (Green Mountain NF, Vt.) turned into a cross country trail run when Michael’s barometer reading took a dive and we realized we hadn’t put the rain cover up yet. We made it back just as the first of many, many drops began to fall.

Highest Thermostat Reading – Holy heat wave! Temperatures were above 90 degrees almost every day in July. There were rumors of 100+ days in Hartford, Conn. but we don’t have any photographic evidence. Most Talked About Natural Phenomenon – The Raven. Michael had a rare chance to see his favorite bird inside Fort Warren on St. George’s Island in the Boston Harbor Islands NRA. The New England Aquarium and a local wildlife refuge were there to entertain weekend visitors. Kids flocked towards the tiny screech owl and starfish, crabs and other crustaceans in water-filled bins, but Michael only had eyes for the Raven.

"Are ravens rally as smart as they say they are? Can they really problem solve?" Michael asked as the raven tried to untie her bindings. We can’t tell if we entertained or annoyed the young volunteer from the refuge with our barrage of questions and commentary. Gab steered her eager partner away from the table as he was saying, Are ravens your favorite bird because they’re my favorite bird. I really like ravens…..

Most Talked About Unnatural Phenomenon – The influx of folks from “The City” and all that comes with it (more tourism and infusion of cash in local communities – good; increased cost of living and crowds – not so good) was a constant in most conversations we overheard in upstate New York.

Most Beautiful View – Sunrise Burlington! A corner room at the Wyndham Hotel in Burlington, Vt. gave us a stunning view of sailboats and Lake Champlain. We woke early to watch the sun come up and the city come to life. As good as any Sunrise Earth episode on the Discovery Channel.

Incidentally, a few days later we recognized the setting for Sunrise Earth’s “Milk Cows in the Morning” when we stopped at the Marsh Billings Rockefeller NHP in Woodstock, Vt.

Ugliest Park Site Surroundings – Steamtown NHS, Scranton, Pa. We guess there are worse things you can do with an abandoned train yard than make it into a National Park site. But the adjacent mall and parking garage do little for the aesthetics of an already dubious destination.

Most Beautiful Park Site Surroundings – Vermont. Yes, all of it. Before we reached the state, we didn’t want to buy into the all the hype about its lush greenery, rolling hills and striking mountain scenery. Consider us convinced. Vermont just may tie West Virginia as the most beautiful state east of the Mississippi.

Most Unusual Place to Upload www.usa-c2c.com – The one coffee shop in Quincy, Mass. That was not a Starbucks or a Dunkin’ Donuts. The place itself was not that unusual. The fact that it took us all morning to find it was.

Liveliest City Center (Towns) – Burlington, Vt. Have you ever driven into a town that seemed so darn near perfect that you wondered if you drove into a parallel universe? We immediately fell in love with Burlington, Vermont. Great food, friendly folks, restaurants and bars with plenty of outdoor seating, a lakeshore park, large pedestrian-only street in the middle of downtown…Man! Burlington is nice!

Dullest City Center (Towns) – Hanover, N.H. We drove to the home of Dartmouth hoping to grab some lunch, walk around campus and maybe even spend the night. We were surprised to find, well, we didn’t find anything interesting along the main streets of a city we thought would be fun to explore.

Number of Capitol Buildings Visited This Month – Six! (Seven including Harrisburg) Technically, we haven’t toured the inside of our Nation’s Capitol yet but we circumnavigated its grounds all day. That counts, right?

Most Beautiful and Ugliest Capitol Buildings – Nope. Not this time. The last time we called out a capitol of a state which was home to some of our friends, we never heard the end of it. All the capitols we saw this month were equally beautiful. Really they were.

Biggest Disappointment(s) – The Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial in Washington DC. I guess we expected more than walls and waterfalls. The tribute to one of our favorite president’s was probably our least favorite DC stop. Long, crowded, uninspiring. Sigh.

Finding the Zane Gray Museum in the Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River closed until further notice was also a bummer.

Most Pleasant Surprise – On the way home from a long day at Harper’s Ferry NHP, we decided to stop in the small town of Brunswick, Md. where a passport stamp for the C&O Canal NHP was rumored to reside. While searching the streets for anything resembling a Visitor Center, we heard an ungodly roar. We turned a corner to find two NASCAR cars gunning their engines for eager fans. Yes folks, we had stumbled on to Brunswick’s “NASCAR Day” and were rewarded with up close and personal views of the car Tony Stewart ran last year in Chicago. Michael was a little more excited than he will admit.

Most Unpleasant Surprise – Tickets to the top of the Washington Monument were sold out by 9 am the Saturday we drove to DC. We hadn’t even boarded the metro at Shady Grove by then! The ticket attendant told us people often began lining up by 6:30 am on summer days. At that point, we were still in bed. Helpful hint: you can reserve tickets online at http://reservations.nps.gov/ before you go and pick them up at the small kiosk in front of the Monument. A small service fee applies.

Proudest Accomplishment – Filling the tank for under $3/gallon every time - no small task when traveling through Connecticut and Rhode Island, states infamous for pricy petrol.

Unsolved Mystery – Why is there no affordable place to stay between Narrowsburg, Pa. and Albany, N.Y.? Did you know that Poughkeepsie, N.Y. is a top tourist destination? We didn’t.

Mystery Solved – More like revealed in all its glory. We finally saw the inside of Fenway Park! More on this later….

The “Fancy Meeting You Here” Award – When Michael and the Ranger at the Martin Van Buren NHS started chatting while waiting for the next house tour to begin, we learned that he had been stationed at the Tall Grass Prairie National Preserve when we were there two years ago. He recognized Gab!!

Runner Up: A flooded basement and a found address book put one of Gab’s coolest friends back in touch with her a few weeks before this leg of the trip. We promptly took him up on his “if you’re ever back in Boston…” invitation and spent 4 fabulous days in Winthrop, Mass. With Bill and his fiancĂ© Carol watching the planes go by.

Most Gluttonous Day – Even though we had already polished off a huge grilled steak dinner at Leunig’s Bistro (thank you, early bird special!) we simply couldn’t leave Burlington, Vt. without another taste of American Flatbread. We topped off the night with a small flatbread to go and savored fond memories of our days in Burlington.

Best Sporting Experience – Boston Red Sox vs. Anaheim Angels at Fenway Park. This is when having some friends who know a city really helps. We drove to the stadium and parked just steps away from Yawkey Way, where we stocked up with food and drink and chatted with the nice lady on stilts. After a few laps around the interior, we tried a few different views of the game: first in standing room only, then in our proper seats in the bleachers and then, into four impossibly empty seats in the loge level behind third base. We watched extra innings from padded seats in the shade.

Much as we hate to admit it, Fenway is a classic American sports venue, even better than Boston Red Sox fans tell you it is. And we all know how modest they are. July 29 was a perfect day. A million thanks to Bill and Carol for making it happen.

Most Scenic Drive (Highways) – Route 100 through Vt, along the Mad River. A rainy morning gave way to sunshine peeking through the clouds as we toured small towns, stopped at country stores and got out to take photos of covered bridges and waterfalls right next to the road. Route 100 was made for road trips and leisurely drives.

Best Day Hike – A 4-mile morning walk along the carriage paths at the Marsh Billings Rockefeller NHP. We had time to waste before the 10 am tour and hot coffee to drink so we set out into the woods and found ourselves at a duck pond just as the morning light was just right.

Highest Price for Gas – $2.99/gallon, Cumberland Farms, Foxboro, Mass. Phew! This price was actually 5 cents higher than its listing on http://www.gasbuddy.com/ earlier that morning.

Lowest Price for Gas – $2.57/gallon, Giant Foods, Hershey, Pa. Frequent grocery trips to Giant resulted in 30 cents off each gallon with our rewards card. Can’t beat that.

Most Out of the Way Site – Boston Harbor Islands NRA. Ok, it wasn’t that far, but you do need your own boat or a ticket for the ferry to get there. Any place where there is a chance of being stranded by water transport counts as out of the way.

Best Pizza – Any pie from American Flatbread, Burlington, Vt. You can’t go wrong.

Most Helpful Roadside Stop – The Ranger Station (give specific location) in Washington DC. You could track down each stamp and brochure from each DC NPS site, of which there are dozens. Or you could just GET THEM ALL RIGHT HERE. Michael distracted the Ranger with talk of the weather while Gab furiously stamped away and tried not to hyperventilate with excitement.

Most Inappropriately Named Rest Stop – State Liquor Store Rest Stop, I-93, N.H. How was that approved by the highway commission, we wonder?

Best Burger – CH Evans Brewing Company/Albany Pump Station, Albany, N.Y. Gab built her own with gorgonzola and bacon while Michael opted for the signature Pump Station Burger, a delicious concoction which blends beer, bbq sauce and scallions right into the patty. Mmmm…burgers…..

Best Smelling Factory – Ben and Jerry’s Factory Tour, Waterbury, Vt. Is this place really a factory? The tour was slick, perhaps a little too slick, and is it really a “free” sample when you paid 3 bucks to get on the tour? Either way, the scent of ice cream is in the air and it smells good.

Best Giant Statues – Uncle Sam, Santa Clause AND Mighty Mouse (on an elephant no less) are all standing tall in the parking lot to greet visitors at Magic Forest Park, south of Lake George, N.Y.

Best Missing Statue – There are four alcoves on the Saratoga Monument but only 3 statues. The officer who, by most accounts, was the hero of Saratoga was purposefully omitted. Poor Benedict Arnold.

Almost Celebrity Sightings – Gab swears Gallagher and Dr. Z, Daimler Chrysler’s new spokesperson were sitting next to us at American Flatbread in Burlington or at least dead ringers for the two D-list celebrities.

There was a case of mistaken identity at the shipping docks in New Bedford, Mass. A fisherman saw us wandering around with cameras and asked, “are you guys from the newspaper?” He was absolutely baffled that we would choose to vacation in New Bedford and that we thought the ships were photo-worthy.

Best Campground – Chittenden Brook Campground, Green Mountain National Forest, Vt. Many thanks to the forest ranger in Warren, Vt for making the recommendation. Tucked away in the Green Mountains, this beautiful campground next to a babbling brook was shady, clean, comfortable, and hardly crowded. We spotted just a few other campers on our evening walk around the grounds. Even with the rain, we are glad we camped here.

Worst Driving Experience – Traveling north on Routes 9 and 9N alongside Lake George, N.Y. It wasn’t horrible, just unexpected. We expected a quiet scenic drive with a lake view, not a bustling, crowded chain of resort towns filled with factory outlets, mini golf, motels and boat rentals. Kids and families everywhere! Now we know.

Biggest Stretch – Scranton, Pa. as a National Historic Site. We won’t elaborate. This is kind of like picking on the scrawniest kid in class.

Harpers Ferry, WV • Dillsburg, PA • Brunswick, MD • Frederick, MD • DIllsburg, PA • Shady Grove, MD • Washington DC • Hershey, PA • Scranton, PA • Greentown, PA • Lackawaxen, PA • Narrowsburg, PA • Woodbourne, NY • New Paltz, NY • Albany, NY • Kinderhook, NY • Catskill, NY •Hudson, NY • Colonie, NY • Waterford, NY • Saratoga, NY • Schuylerville, NY • Lake George, NY • Bolton Landing, NY • Ticonderoga, NY • Burlington, VT • Waterbury, VT • Montpelier, VT • Inasville, VT • Waitsfield, VT • Warren, VT •Rochester, VT • Woodstock, VT • Hanover, NH • Concord, NH • Lexington, MA • Concord, MA • Winthrop, MA • Boston, MA • Cambridge, MA • Quincy, MA • Dorchester, MA • Foxboro, MA • Providence, RI • New Bedford, MA • Newport, RI • Hartford, CT • Scranton, PA •

Harpers Ferry NHP • Old Post Office Tower NM • World War II National Memorial • John Paul Jones Nacional Memorial • Department of the Interior Museum • Constitution Gardens • 56 Signers of the Declaration of Independence Memorial • Vietnam Veterans Memorial • Lincoln Memorial • Korean War Veterans Memorial • DC War Memorial • Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial • George Mason Memorial • Thomas Jefferson Memorial • Ford’s Theatre NHS • Peterson House • Steamtown NHS • Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River • Martin Van Buren NHS • Thomas Cole NHS • Saratoga NHP • Marsh Billings Rockefeller NHP • Saint Gaudens NHS • Minute Man NHP • John F. Kennedy Birthplace NHS • Longfellow NHS • Boston NHP • Boston Harbor Islands NRA • Boston African American NHS • Adams NHP • JFK Presidencial Library • Roger Williams NM • New Bedford Whaling NHP • Touro Synagogue •

May and June 2006 - Month(s) in Review

We’re Baa-ack! Yes it’s been a while since the last compilation of all that’s good and/or unusual from our travels. But here we are. This edition of our Best Ofs includes highlights from Washington DC, Virginia, Maryland, West Virginia and of course, PA.Best Weather Day – Hard to choose, but probably May 4th, in and around Washington DC. We had nothing but sunshine and pleasant warmth, a perfect day to play hooky from work.

Best Opportunity to Test Michael’s “Jacket of the Year” (Worst Weather Day) – June 1st. We were fully prepared to camp along the Youghiogheny River, but 90+ degree weather, near 100% humidity and ominous skies made us think better of it. We had just finished our meal in Morgantown, W. Va. when the heavens opened and lightning blazed across the sky. We were soaked in the short distance between the car and the entrance to our hotel room, where we watched the nightlong downpour.

Thank God We’re Not Here Next Month Award – Washington D.C. The humidity was just starting to seep into our pores as we tried to navigate the Parkways and walked through Georgetown. Michael’s years in DC tell him that DC is one of the last places one wants to be in July or August. (But wait a minute, we will be here in July and August…)

Most Effective Billboard Slogan – “Free Beer Fridays”, Georgia Street BBQ, Smithfield, Pa.

Most Interesting Sign – “National Chainsaw Carving Contest, June 15th,” Somerset County, Pa.

Strangest Endorsement – Tie. Nate Dogg’s Beer to Go, along I-40 in Fayette County, Penna and the Samuel Hagar Post of the American Legion, Port Marion, Pa.

Most Talked About Natural Phenomenon – The rising Susquehanna River. Days and days of thunderstorms the last week in June freaked out those in flood-prone areas of Harrisburg, Pa. The first two days of Harrisburg’s American Music Fest were prematurely cancelled. City Island went underwater. The Harrisburg Senators were rerouted to their opponent’s field AND the Beach Boys concert was repositioned to take place right in front of our windows. We think Harrisburg may have overreacted, but better safe than sorry, we suppose.

Most Beautiful View – Great Falls, whether that’s the Maryland side or the Virginia side will depend upon which Sedor you ask.

Ugliest Park Site SurroundingsClaude Moore Colonial Farm (part of the George Washington Memorial Parkway). Colonial Farm Road is also the entrance road to the George Bush Center for Intelligence a/k/a CIA Headquarters. The CIA land forms the Park’s heavily guarded eastern border. The Farm Visitor Center is a non-descript and poorly marked mobile classroom unit. A flimsy red and white homemade sign labeled Colonial Farm should point you into the gravel parking lot. (We missed the sign and continued to an indomitable CIA entrance a few hundred yards down the road where we turned around).

Thankfully, the Colonial Farm is positioned so that once through its entrance gates, the high fences, paved roads and security check points of the modern world are undetectable.

Biggest DisappointmentThomas Stone NHS, the only NPS site dedicated to a signer of the Declaration of Independence for no other reason other than he was a signer. Whoop de doo.
Unsolved Mystery – How do we get to Theodore Roosevelt Island from the George Washington Parkway!?!?

Mystery Solved – We leave the car at our friends’ apartment, take the metro to Rosslyn and walk. That’s the plan for the next jaunt down to DC.

Most Gluttonous Day – Did we really need a giant soft pretzel AND a BBQ sandwich AND a BBQ platter at Camden Yards? Well, yes.

Cheapest Ballgame Ticket – $17 for ridiculously good seats at Camden Yards, Baltimore, Md. We sat in the first row of the right field bleachers for Kevin Thompson’s debut as a Yankee and a major leaguer. He is now Gab’s new favorite Yankee.

Most Expensive Ballgame Ticket – $20 for mid-level seats at Yankee Stadium, the Bronx, NYC. Sure, the difference in ticket price is minimal. Add parking, lunch and a few beers at Yankee Stadium prices and we can see why Yankee’s fans make frequent trips to Baltimore.

Best Sporting Experience – Wait! We almost forgot! We got into a Harrisburg Senators Game for FREE. Gab’s cousin was in town as an umpire and got us tickets to a Saturday game on City Island. Even better, we persuaded Gab’s dad to come along. This was his first trip to the Senators Stadium since they added bleachers (that’s a looong time ago). He had such a good time we are hoping he joins us more often. What’s better than hearing an old timer yell out “that’s a can o’ corn!” every time an easy out pops into the outfield?

Best Short Hike – Along the boardwalks from the Great Falls Tavern and Museum to the Maryland side of the Great Falls of the Potomac. Great blue herons flew overhead, the Falls roared in the distance and everyone on the walk was celebrating the glorious spring day.

Highest Price for Gas – $2.88/gal, Citgo, Accokeek, Md

Lowest Price for Gas – $2.46/gal, Giant, Mechanicsburg, Pa. Note: accumulated points on our Giant Bonus Card got us a 30 cent a gallon savings. Fill ‘er up!

Most Out of the Way SiteFriendship Hill NHS. Poor Mrs. Gallatin. This young socialite was not the biggest fan of New Geneva’s rustic setting.

Best Ballpark Cuisine – Boog’s BBQ at Camden Yards

Best Bartender and Best Pizza - Scotty and pizza at the Subway Café, Herr Street, Harrisburg, Pa. are shoe-ins for these categories any time we are in Harrisburg.

Best Waiter/Waitress – Summer, on the deck at the West Virginia Brewing Company, Morgantown, WV. This sweet, dreadlocked darling steered us towards the best sandwiches, hooked us up with freshly delivered fries and gave a frank explanation of why there were no longer any beer specials – “you see, we are just starting to distribute and we need to make some money somewhere.” Fair enough.

Best Tour Guide – The NPS Ranger at the Clara Barton NHS. Her tour group consisted of a German businessman and us. Questions ranged from wartime logistics to internal workings of the Red Cross to international treaties and agreements both past and present. She tried to address each inquiry as thoroughly and neutrally as possible, never giving a hint of her own political leanings or preferences. A true professional.

Most Helpful Roadside Stop – The Youghiogheny Overlook Maryland VC on 68 towards Cumberland, Md. Finally, a chance to restock our supply of maps and hotel coupon books. Free wildflower seed mix!

Worst Acting in a National Park Service Film – The disemboweled head of Mr. Albert Gallatin at Friendship Hill NHS. The Ranger explained that there used to be a full bodied hologram projected in the middle of the VC lobby, but constant malfunctions shrunk this ambitious project down to its present state – a video of the head of the hologram.

Most Unexpected Local Pronunciation – The Youghiogheny (yuck-kah-GAY-nee) River, Western Pa. Actually, its not really unexpected since we are from P.A.

Best Fast Food – Regular Roast Beef Sandwich, Roy Rogers, Frederick, Md. There are no more Roys in Harrisburg so a regular RB and a red birch beer en route to DC are special treats.

Best Smelling FactoryStroehmann’s Pennsylvania Dutch Bakers, Paxton Street, Harrisburg, Pa. This has been the benchmark for all other best smelling factories. It doesn’t smell all the time. In fact, the aroma of baking bread wafts onto the highway when you least expect it.

Best American Kabuki – Dizzy Rascal, he’s a dizzy Rascal!

Largest Measuring Device – The canal water gauge painted right on the side of the Cushwa Warehouse, C&O Canal, Williamsport, Md.

Worst Driving Experience – Missing our exit at least three times on the George Washington Memorial Parkway. In our defense, the LBJ Memorial Grove can only be reached going northbound. The good news is we landed right in front of the Netherlands Carillon and the USMC Memorial – 2 other NPS sites on our list to visit.

Biggest Stretch – Trying to write a “Best of” for two months where we have seen more sunrises on the Discovery Channel than we have from a tent. We will be straying a little further from home next month. Stay tuned as we return to New England in July. New Hampshire and Vermont, here we come!

Harrisburg, PA • Frederick, MD • Glen Echo, MD • McLean, VA • Tysons Corner, VA • Arlington, VA • Roslyn, VA • Washington, DC • Oxon Hill, MD • Waldorf, MD • La Plata, MD • Port Tobacco, MD • Accokeek, MD • Washington DC • Harrisburg, PA • Somerset, PA • Farmington, PA • New Geneva, PA • Morgantown, WV • Cumberland, MD • Hancock, MD • Williamsport, MD • Sharpsburg, MD • Towson, MD • Baltimore, MD •

Clara Barton NHS • Glen Echo Park • Clara Barton Parkway • George Washington MEM PKWY • Great Falls Tavern and Museum • Claude Moore Colonial Farm
Great Falls Park • Wolf Trap Farm and Pavilion • Thomas Stone NHS • Piscataway Park • National Colonial Farm • Fort Washington • Fort Foote • Oxon Hill • Marine Corps War Memorial • Netherlands Carillon • Old Stone House • C&O Canal NHP • Fort Necessity NB • Friendship Hill NHS • C&O Canal NHP • Antietam NB • Hampton NHS • Fort McHenry NHS •

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